Ireland
|
| Ireland |
Dunmanus Bay lies between Mizen Head to the South and Bantry Bay to the North. It is out of the main tidal flow and has no significant river flowing into it. Hence it has above average visibility and little silt. The isolation of Dunmanus Bay should be taken into account when planning dives as there is little other traffic in the bay to help you if you run into problems. The small village of Durrus lies at the head of the bay on the R591. The North side of the bay is more populated with a couple of villages and gentle shoreline.
Turn off in Durrus on a smaller road to reach Kilcrohane after 16km. The South side is very isolated with towering cliffs and a dramatic coastline. follow the R591 towards Goleen about 16km beyond Durrus until reaching a junction to the right signposted "Goleen via Coast Road" which brings you to Dunmanus Harbour after a further 1.5km.
Kilcrohane Pier
Turn left at the Western end of Kilcrohane village by the children's playground and follow the road along to the small pier and slipway. Boats can be launched here above half tide to access dive sites further West along the coast. The area around the pier is suitable for shore diving for the less experienced and also night diving with depths of 5-15m.
Dooneen North
Head West out of kilcrohane for 3km until you spot a solitary bar on the left side of the road. After a further 200m take a turn to the left by a large red barn. Follow the narrow road down to a substantial pier. There is no possibility of launching boats here but they can easily be brought from Kilcrohane Pier only 1km away. With a boat you can explore the area around the headland where intermediate dives with depths of 20-30m can be reached.
The area in the vacinity. of the pier is well protected from the prevailing Westerly winds and can be dived when other sites are too rough. If shore diving the area out and to the right of the pier are the most interesting with rocky outcrops and ridges. Depths of 20m can be obtained after a reasonable fin before the bottom runs into sand. Watch out for subsurface mariculture frames and ropes. About 25m to the left of the pier there is a narrow cleft which runs back 50m into the cliff.
The cave is never narrower than a metre wide and has an air space above it at all times. At high water the cave is 10m deep and there is extensive vertical walls which are carpeted with jewel anenomes, particularly near the entrance.
3. Ballybroom Pier
About 5km West of Kilcrohane there is a small museum by a junction where the road splits, straight on heads towards Sheep's Head, and right continues along the "Goat's Path" back towards Bantry. A small road leads down to the left here and runs to a surprisingly large pier and slipway after about 1km. This is the last access point on the Northern side of Dunmanus Bay, high cliffs run on from here to Sheep's Head 7km away.
As the little bay faces South-West it offers little shelter and is only useful in calm weather, when shore dives and short distance boat dives are rewarding without being too demanding. Diving under the high cliffs close to the headland is not as exciting as you would expect and hardly worth the effort involved in getting to this very remote place.
4. Dunmanus Harbour
The substantial pier is used by local fishermen and has just enough water off the head for a boat at low tide, but at low springs it may be necessary to paddle a short distance before lowering the engine. Boats may be launched across a hard gravel shore via a short track about 100m East of the pier. There are no steep gradients and boat trailers can be easily manhandled into the water. However for the larger boats launching would need at least half tide. The harbour is sheltered except for strong North-West and it should be safe to moor a boat if several days in the bay are planned.
The harbour itself is suitable for snorkelling or training, but for diving it is best to head West out of the harbour. There is good intermediate diving close to the headland there is deep water close in where advanced divers can easily find depths of up to 40m. It is wise to drop a shotline to assess the depth before diving as the deep water comes very close to the shore in places!
It is possible to shore dive this general area on a calm day by driving 1km West along the coast road where there access points down to the shore across the fields for the nimble footed diver.
The Carbery Island, about 2km out in the middle of the bay may look promising but in fact have nothing special to offer the diver.
5. Canty's Cove
Head West along the Coast road from Dunmanus Harbour for about 5km until the small hamlet of Dunkelly is reached. The road takes a sharp turn to the left after the 4th house on the left which has a direct lean-to. Turn down to the right 20m before the sharp bend onto a charming cove with pier and slipway. The steepness of the access road demands a vehicle that can pull the boat easily. If you did run into problems, the boat could be recovered at Dunmanus Harbour 4km away.
The bottom of the cove is coarse sand and the water is usually crystal clear with loads of life on the rocky sides of the cove. Access into the water is very easy and it is the ideal spot for trainees, snorkellers and night dives. On the left of the cove there are three fissures in the rock that lead to a open space with a hidden waterfall. One entrance is 2m wide and open to the sky, another is narrower, closed overhead but with ample air space. The third is quite a wriggle but is dry at the highest spot at low water and it makes for interesting exploration.
Canty's Cove is the most Westerly launching point for boats for those heading for the spectacular dives along the cliffs running West to 3 Castle Head 10km away. It is also possible to collect divers from piers further West for those groups with more divers than boat space. There are interesting intermediate dives from a boat close to the shore, particularly around to the left leaving the cove, where depths down to 30m can be selected.
6. Dooneen South
Head West from Dunmaus Harbour as for Canty's Cove but at the sharp bend do not take the gravel road, but take a tarred road to the right 20m further on. After 1.5km turn down right again at a group of farm houses and head for a large solitary white house by the shore about 1.5km away. A small pier and slip is reached just before the house. Parking is tight here and the track is often used by local farmers, so do be considerate. the slipway is very rough and only suitable for the smallest inflatables. Larger boats can easily be brought from Canty's Cove only 2km away. however the pier is very handy for shore diving as the little cove faces NE and is quite sheltered.
The bottom is very interesting with depths of 5-15m to the right of the pier or across towards the point opposite and is ideal for intermediate divers. For those with even the smallest of boats, there is excellent diving around the headland to the left.
7. Dooneen Wall
Just 50m off the cliff that forms the outside of the promontory that protects Dooneen Pier is a spectacular wall that plunges from 25m to 43m. For those coming by boat direct from Canty's Cove, the white house at Dooneen is clearly visible as you approach. there is an archway through the headland which can be used by boats when it is very calm, however, to find the wall ignore the archway and carry on around the headland to it's NW point.
Drop divers about 25m due North of this point to land in about 20m of water. Swimming due North will bring you rapidly to the edge of the wall after a distance of about 50m and at a depth of around 26m. The rim of the wall is quite abrupt and actually overhangs in places. Since it is 17m straight down and below 40m at the bottom, going "over the edge" is a dive for the experienced only. For those using computers it is possible to swim back up the wall and return gradually to shallow water, finishing up with an ascent from only 10m without incurring any decompression requirement, thus making for a satisfying and safe, deep dive.
Continuing around the headland a little more, close to the exit of the archway, there is very good intermediate diving close to the rocks if there is no Westerly swell.
8. The "Iberian"
The 2,000 ton cargo ship, the "Iberian", was en route from Boston to Liverpool when she sank on November 20, 1885 after getting lost in fog and striking a reef South of Bird Island. She was carrying cattle and general cargo along with 54 passengers and crew. No lives were lost in the accident and the ship slipped back into deeper water after two days, where she lies today in 30-38m. Due to the depth the wreck has not been totally flattened by a century of storms and some sections still stand several metres clear of the rocky bottom. The underwater scenery is also very good at this site, making this an ideal spot for a group of divers with varying aspirations! As this wreck is now over 100 years old a permit is required to dive it.
9. Toor Pier
This site has been described under "Mizen Head" as far as shore diving is concerned, but it is a handy place to collect divers if diving the towering cliffs that run West towards Castle Head, rather than make the long journey from Canty's Cove with an overloaded boat. Having a boat at Toor Pier also allows you to dive on the outside of the island without having to worry about a long swim back to the pier.
The coast just to the west of the island is not exceptional, but if the weather is calm a trip of 3km brings you to the very end of the bay and some spectacular diving.
10. Three Castle Head
The Southern end of Dunmanus Bay is reached at 3 Castle Head where the 50m depth contour almost touches the shore and in fact the drop off is so fast that it is hard to find water shallow enough to drop anchor! The last 100m of the bay offers the best of diving with massive cliffs above and below water.
Below the surface extensive rock faces are covered in every kind of life and large shoals of fish abound. The best of the scenery is in the 25-35m range, with rocks tumbling down a further 25m below this again. A strong tidal current flows across the point so be careful not to venture into it if the tide is running. This site is exposed and isolated and requires calm weather, experienced divers and reliable boats to be dived safely. However, the rewards well justify the extra effort.
11. South Bullig Reef
This very tricky site is actually an underwater extension of the cliffs of 3 Castle Head. A narrow reef runs south West about 1km from the headland before finally giving way to the deep waters off-shore. The last rock rises to within 6m of the surface with rock faces cascading down on three sides to 50m and beyond. As this is a very high energy site the marine life and scenery are spectacular, but can only be dived in calm seas. It is also critical to dive only at slack water, as with the steep drop-offs the consequence of drifting off the rock on the descent means an aborted dive as you will never see the bottom before you reach your depth limit!
By lining up Bird Island and the cliffs at 3 Castle Head so that they just touch, you will have the line of the reef, and for those without an echo sounder the end of the reef can be found by dragging an anchor. Do not guess and be sure to use a shotline when divers go down. the nearest access point for picking up divers is Dunlough Pier which is about 1 km South East of the headland.
|
| Ireland |
Bantry Bay is the longest of the many narrow bays that cut into the coastline of West Cork. The town of Bantry is situated at the head of the bay and the major fishing town of Castletownbere is about half-way along the Northern shore. The south shore is accessed by a minor road called the "Goats Path". Turn right just after the West Lodge Hotel when leaving Bantry on the N71 heading South. The road goes out to Sheep's Head 30km away. The North side, which is over 50km long, ends at Dursey Island with Kenmare River to the North. There is deep water right up the bay and this was the reason for siting a major oil terminal on Whiddy Island as it could accommodate the largest oil tankers in the world. This now effectively closed.
The diving on the south shore is not spectacular with bare rock faces plunging rapidly into the depths with little growth. There are a couple of location worth a mention:
Gerahies Pier
About 8km along the goat's Path from the West Lodge Hotel is the small harbour of Gerahies with a good slip, usable after half tide, giving access to the coastline to the West, where there are some interesting gullies just beyond the pier. It is also possible to shore dive by entering the water a little East of the pier across a rocky reef.
Collack Pier
A further 8km along the Goat's Path there is a turn off to the right down to the water at Collack Pier. The access road is a little rough, but it should be possible to launch a medium sized boat here. There is no shelter from Westerly winds, but on a calm day shore diving around the pier can be rewarding.
It is 16km on the T65 from Bantry to the picturesque village of Glengarriff, where the road splits and the L61 heads off towards Castletownbere along the Northern shores of Bantry Bay.
Zetland Pier
7km beyond Glengar take a left marked "Zetland Pier" and follow the road down to the shore for 2 km until you arrive at a charming open spot with a simple pier. while there is no slipway, it is possible to launch an inflatable into the water without much problem, while RIB's would have to be launched in Glengarriff or across the bay at Gerahies. The area around the pier is suitable for snorkelling while the attraction for divers is Sheelane Island about 800m offshore.
At the Western end of the island is a small outlying rock with a splendid open cave to explore. The rocky bottom is covered with brittle and feather stars as it runs down into deeper water and life begins to peter out around 30m.
Roancarrigmore Lighthouse / Lonehort Point
16km beyond Glengariff lies the straggling village of Ardrigole dominated by Hungry Hill beyond. 5km beyond the centre of the village take a left turn down to Bank Harbour which has a small pier suitable for small inflatables. This is the best location for departures to the rocks and reefs to the East of Bere Island. There is a wreck of a Spanish trawler here, but it is completely dry on the rocks!
Bardini Reefer
Continuing West past the large camp-site there is a left turn signposted for Bere Island Ferry, which brings you, after 800m, to a pleasant little harbour with a good slipway. About half-way across the bay towards Bere Island lies the wreck of the factory ship "Bardini Reefer" which sank about 10 years ago in 15m of water after catching fire at anchor. Finding it is no problem as the masts are visible above water!
The wreck is almost complete and it is possible to poke your nose into some of the openings. Due to the gentle currents that bathe the wreck there is a lot of growth on the superstructure. Given the shallow depth it is best to plan your dive at high water, when you can spend as long as you like exploring without going below 10m. Being within Bere Haven it can be dived when it is too rough to dive in the open bay.
Spanish Trawler
This 30m long fishing boat struck the rocks just West of the entrance to Castletownbere and sank in 30m. It is still substantially intact and lying on it's side. There are 2 slips at Castletownbere Harbour. The one at the far end of the pier complex is less public and more suitable for a group of divers with all their gear.
The wreck lies at the narrowest part of the Western entrance to the harbour about 3.5km from the pier, exactly on the leading lights, which can be spotted in daylight by the fluorescent orange backing plates. Continue out to sea along this line until Sheep's Head appears across the bay from behind the cliffs of Bere Island. About 100m further and a house will appear between the rocks on the mainland and this is the second transit for the wreck. It is easily picked out with an echo-sounder.
Watch out for heavy trawler traffic that comes through the narrow channel, avoid Sunday afternoons when they all put to sea! Be sure to dive your A-Flag flying and your divers have SMB's and be on the constant look-out. It is possible to launch a smaller boat at Dunboy Castle and thus half the journey to the wreck (Head West out of the town on the L61 and turn left at the signpost after 1.5km).
Black Ball Head
Head West out of Castlebere on the L61, passing a junction to the right to Allihies after 10km. About 1km further a national school is passed on the right. Take the next left turn and then quickly right onto a narrow lane and Black Ball Harbour is reached after 1km. It is possible to launch medium sized boats across the rocky beach about 100m before the pier.
Heading out of the harbour and turning left, after 300m, brings you to the dark imposing cliffs of Black Ball Head. Here the cliffs rise 60m above the sea and plunge 45m underwater with hardly a pause. Finding a bottom to anchor is quite a problem! The underwater scenery is marvelous with massive walls of rock carpeted with life running down to a sea floor of massive boulders. Enter the water very close to the cliffs in order to find "shallow" water. This is obviously only suitable in calm conditions and slack water.
Garnish Pier
Continuing along the B61 Westward, the scenery gets wilder, but after driving through a narrow pass a valley opens up on the right with a road heading down at a junction signposted "Garnish Pier". Continue straight on here and after 2km you will reach the end of the road and the unique cable car connecting with Dursey Island.
Arriving at the pier there is a lot of space with a good pier and slipway usable except at low water. there is even a nice sandy beach for relaxing on! The bay is quite sheltered and if it is too rough to dive "outside" then interesting diving can be had in the vicinity of the rocks, with a bollard on them, out to the right.
There are the remains of an old coal boat here. When the conditions are right, the long journey to this remote spot is rewarded with superb diving around to the left beyond Garnish Point. If the tide is high it is possible to pass directly from the pier to the open sea, otherwise you must motor 1km around the islands. The whole area between the point and the entrance to Dursey Sound offers excellent diving with rock faces tumbling down to 40m and beyond. It is a very high energy site and thus rarely calm, however this also means the rocks are ablaze with life to 35m. This whole area offers a multitude of other top class dive sites suitable for the advanced diver when conditions are very calm.
Crow Head
6km from Garnish pier by boat, after passing through Dursey Sound, you reach the long headland of Crow Head sticking out into Bantry Bay. There is a rock just awash just off-shore and the whole area is an amazing jumble of massive rocks and boulders, some over 30m high in an area that is generally 40-45m deep. Great care is needed to avoid too much ascending and descending, but when the visibility is very good this is the closest you'll get to flying! Obviously slack water is essential.
Bull Rock
For a major expedition off-shore for a group with the right boats and personnel, look no further than Bull Rock, 5km beyond the end of Dursey Island and 15km from Garnish Pier. This very impressive rock rises almost vertically from the sea on all sides to a height of 80m and is topped by a lighthouse. There is a large archway right through the middle of the rock, through which it is possible to take a dive boat, but watch out for the thousands of sea birds that nest on the cliffs! Although it is probably possible to dive in a tidal shadow, it makes sense to plan a dive here for slack water to reduce risks.
Excellent deep diving is assured here wherever you enter the water with the life running on well beyond safe diving depths. The helicopter landing pad, 60m above sea-level, was washed away by a wave during a storm some years ago. Needless to say it needs to be exceptionally calm to dive here. There are two other offshore rocks nearby, the Crow and the Calf, equally impressive.
Mizen Head, Co. Cork
Sunday, 03 January 2010 23:19 |
| Ireland |
Mizen Head is situated at the very South-Western point of Ireland and approached by the N71 via Skibbereen and onwards through the villages of Schull and Goleen. The last village on the peninsula is Crookhaven.
There are several good shore dives, but to appreciate the area at best boats are required. Due to their exposed locations, many of these dives are suitable only for experienced divers and in calm conditions.
Galley Cove
The most Westerly access point on the South coast is Galley Cove, about 2km before Crookhaven, where a fine sandy beach opens up on your right with a good view of Fastnet Rock 10km out to sea. Small boats can be launched across the beach, while large RIB's should be launched at Crookhaven where there is a good slip and motored the 5km around Sreek Head to meet the rest of your group at Galley Cove beach. From here there are a selection of sites ranging from simple shore dives to spectacular boat dives under cliffs for the very experienced diver.
Galley Cove Rock
just 100m from the beach there is excellent snorkelling inside the rock over a gently sloping sandy bottom with rocky outcrops. Beyond the island there are interesting gullies in a depth range 10-25m suitable for the less experienced diver or for those without a boat.
Carrigadeavaun
About 1km East of Galley Cove is a rock that looks like it has just split off from the mainland. There is some shelter from a Westerly swell behind it which can make kitting up more comfortable. there is an interesting bottom at 20m usually covered with feather and brittle stars. swimming towards the point of the rock and out to sea the bottom tumbles down to 35-40m with a lot of life all the way down. This site is suitable for intermediate and advanced divers as you can easily select your depth.
Reen Point
Heading West from the cove the first headland reached after only 400m is Reen Point. Here the depth drops off rapidly to 40m just off-shore in several jagged steps. There can be a gentle tidal current and excellent walls of jewel anenomes.
The bay between Reen Point and Brow Head was known as a mating ground for basking sharks, but they are rarely seen now. There is good 30m diving all along under the cliffs heading West to Brow Head with no noticeable current. An old anchor was spotted a few years ago about 800m short of Brow Head in 20m of water but there is no sign of any wrecks.
Mizen Head
THE FOLLOWING DIVES ARE ONLY SUITABLE FOR THE EXPERIENCED
IN CALM WEATHER CONDITIONS!
NB: The Mizen Head area offers some of Ireland's best diving, but can be dangerous. Make sure your equipment is reliable, 2 boats and a VHF radio should be considered the minimum. Be on the look out for changing conditions when the tide turns.
Brow Head
There is spectacular diving under the towering cliffs at Brow head, the Southern most point of Ireland. The tide can be very strong here so it should be only dived at slack water.
For those ready for it there is a stunning drift dive from the tip of the headland going West towards Mizen Head when the tide has just turned to ebb.
There is a reef about 20m which runs parallel to the flow and lasts for at least 1km. With a gentle current and good visibility, you can cruise from ridge to ridge which, due to the high energy environment, are carpeted with Dead Man's Fingers and Jeweled Anenomes. Taking care not to slip off the top of the reef into deeper water on either side, you can get a full half hour drift while keeping above 24m. Excellent boat cover is essential.
Every diver should also carry some additional method of signaling in case of separation. Being alone 1km off the end of Ireland is very lonely!
Carrignagower
This rock, which is awash at high water, lies 50m off shore about 1km before Mizen Head. even in the calmest weather the swell breaks against it. The outside of the rock is an excellent wall with marine growth on every square inch. This is a slack water dive only! There is a safe passage inside the rock for those heading for the Mizen.
Mizen Head
When the weather is very calm this is the place to head for, but conditions North of the point can be very different to those on the approach. If you are unhappy about rounding the point there is a lot of good diving close in between the point and the bridge where 35m is easily reached.
On the mainland side of the bridge the water is shallower and the diving less demanding. For those who have the necessary permit, the cannons and anchors of the L'impatient (sunk 1796) lie off the small headland which also has a small pier and access steps.
Back to the tip of Mizen, right under the lighthouse there is a deep gully where at least 3 boats have been wrecked, 2 trawlers, Ribble (1906) and Manoes (1908) along with the yacht Taurima (1975). The weather must be flat calm to allow divers to venture right up to the gully, but who knows what nay be found among the rocks!
The reef out from the tip of the Mizen offers diving that is hard to beat anywhere with stunning scenery and large shoals of fish. However since the tide runs across the reef (rather than along it as at Brow Head) you can only dive here at exactly slack water, so plan to travel a little earlier and be prepared to wait.
North of the Mizen is a graveyard of many steamers and coasters from around the turn of the century. Irada (1908), Bohemian (1887), Memphis (1896) and several more. Very little structure has survived the ravages of a century of winter storms, but wreckage can be seen on almost every dive in this area.
The Copper Boat
The remains of the "Oswertery" lie wedged on the North side of a towering stack 500m North of Mizen Head. Sometimes mistakenly called the Irada the wreck got it's name from the 40kg copper ingots that were in it's cargo and could still be found up to a few years ago. A couple are still visible but have resisted all attempts to move them! There is little structure left but the wreck is easy to find, only 15-20m deep and it is the most impressive site for a rummage.
Shore Dives
Apart from the straight forward shore dive at Galley Cove, there are several advanced shore dives at exposed small piers around the Mizen Headland. They all require a walk from the car to the access point and it would be wise to check the conditions before kitting up. If there is a significant swell do not enter the water as it can be difficult to get out after a dive when you are tired. There is no significant tide runs at these sites, but at low tide access steps will be high and dry.
Vaud Cove
Follow the road West from Goleen towards Mizen Head. 800m past the Barley Cove Hotel the road widens on the left. Turn down here towards a farmhouse. Just before the house turn right through a gate along a track towards an isolated modern house. From here the footpath goes off to the left before swinging round and down to a small pier after 200m. Entering the water it is worth snorkelling across to the right hand point and diving on the cliffs beyond. This site is exposed to S and SE winds.
Dunlough Pier
Approaching Mizen Head, ignore the turn to the left before the Barley Cove Hotel and continue straight on up to the T junction. Turn right and follow the road until it ends in about 2 miles. To reach the pier, walk straight ahead, cross the steep slipway and clamber about 3m and you will see the steps leading to a small pier about 50m away. In the water snorkel across to the point opposite before going down and out along the gullies where 30m depth can be easily reached. This site is very exposed to Westerly swells and winds.
Toor Pier
While technically in Dunmanus Bay, this site is grouped under Mizen Head shore dives due to it's similar exposed and spectacular location approaching Mizen Head, about 1km before the turn off to the Barley Cove Hotel, there is a National School on the right. Take the next turn to the right after about 100m. Follow the road up and over the hill and down towards Dunmanus Bay until the road ends, from where there is a footpath 100m down to the pier.
In the water the best diving is along the cliff to the right of the pier where ridges run out to meet the sand at about 30m. For the more energetic the diving around the right hand point of the Island is well worth the effort, while the tunnel through the headland and surrounding area is shallow but quite interesting, but the gullies run in all directions making navigation difficult. It is an excellent spot for the advanced snorkeller.
Roaring Water Bay, Co. Cork
Sunday, 03 January 2010 22:54 |
| Ireland |
Roaringwater Bay lies between Crookhaven to the West and Baltimore to the South-East and includes the "Carbery 100 Isles" and it is these islands that offer the varied and sheltered diving which makes this area so attractive.
Schull is the ideal base for diving the area and is 20km West of the town of Skibbereen on the N71/L57. It is a very popular holiday destination and in the high season accommodation should be booked well in advance. It has an excellent range of facilities with many pubs, restaurants and shops including the area's only dive shop. It also has a fine harbour with the best slipway in West Cork.
There are a variety of dive sites ranging from shore dives for the absolute novice to demanding dives off the famous Fastnet Rock 12km out to sea. Tides need to be watched at a few exposed points, but in general diving can be carried out at any state of the tide.
Shore Dives
As the main attraction of the area is the range of islands there are not many interesting shore dives, however some are worth mentioning:
Rock Island
16km West of Schull is the village of Goleen, 2km beyond here here on the road to Crookhaven take a junction on the left to "Rock Island", which overlooks Crookhaven Harbour. Access to the shore is private but there should be no problem using the small pier at the western end of the island and the Irish Lights caretaker will usually allow you to dive off pier at the lighthouse complex at the Eastern end, but do ask.
The area is well sheltered from all but Easterly winds. Although the bottom rapidly runs into mud/gravel there are some pretty outcrops covered with plumose anenomes.
However the main reason for diving here is to search for items dropped off the old sailing ships which used to tie up here in the last century. Some fine bottles have been recovered.
Goleen Pier
In the village of Goleen take a turn to the left down to the small pier and slipway which dries at low water. Continue on the narrow lane to the outer pier where there is always water and is close to the open sea. Access is easy and the scenery reasonable and improves if you swim out further into the bay where depths of 15m can be found. This site is well protected from westerly winds.
Castle Point
5km West of Schull on the road to Goleen take a left turn signposted "Schull via Coast Road". After 1.5km the road swings round to the East and you will see a castle on a spit of land off to your right. Take a narrow road in the direction of the castle for500m until you reach a sheltered little pier. Access into the water is easy and the little cove offers excellent conditions for beginners with a shingle bottom and rocky walls with good marine growth.
Although exposed to strong Westerly winds the visibility is usually very good and it is an excellent location for night diving. It is best when the tide is in as the slippery lower steps are covered and depths of 10m can be reached.
Boat Dives
The best place to launch boats of any size is Schull where even the biggest of RIB's can be easily launched at all but low water spring tide. It is also possible to tie off a boat overnight on a running mooring beside the pier. Smaller boats may be launched at Goleen (above half tide) for Spanish Point or across the sand at Ballyrisode beach for Amsterdam reef (take the road West out of the village of Toomore towards Goleen for 1.5km, past a gift shop on the right and then take the next turn to the left which brings you to the beach and carpark in 1km.)
Spanish Point
About 1km South of the village of Goleen is a low headland and reef well protected from the West. It is easily reached from Goleen pier and fair diving can be found close in when more adventurous sites are not available due to strong Westerly winds. An easy site for beginners.
Amsterdam Reef
1km South of Ballyrisode beach is a small group of rocks and outlying reef where interesting diving can be had on the Eastern flank and in the shallows of the reef itself.
The remainder of the dive sites in Roaringwater Bay are best reached by boat from Schull.
Goat Island
Heading West out of Schull harbour up Long Island Channel for 4km brings you to Goat Island which appears to be split in two pieces. There is an excellent reef running South East from the Southern most tip off the island where water depths of 20m rapidly run off to on either side. Start right under the small white beacon on the island and watch out for the current when the tide is running.
The Western side of the island, close in, has nice diving when it is too rough to dive off the point itself. The small islands and rocks which spread West from here have excellent diving on their South side but rapidly run into sand on their North sides. These sites are more suited to the experienced diver. Long Island is better for novice divers.
"Lady Charlotte"
Somewhere in the vicinity of the Barrel Rocks, 1km West of Goat Island, lie the remains of the Lady Charlotte, which floundered in shallow water on 23 October 1838 en route from Peru to Liverpool with a valuable cargo of silver bullion. £70,000 worth of silver was promptly salvaged, but it is likely that not all was recovered. Indeed many years ago a silver dollar was found washed up on a beach on Long Island. Many divers tried their luck with looking for this wreck, but without success so far!
Long Island
The white beacon standing on Copper Point at the Eastern end of Long Island can easily be seen 2km from Schull Pier. The whole of the South side of the island offers good, easy diving in the range of 10-20m close to the shore, with the diving getting better and a little harder as you move West along the 3km coastline, so it is easy to select a site to suit your group's experience.
Amelia Rock
This rock, lying about1km South-east of Copper Point, comes to within 3m of the surface at the end of the reef which runs out South-west from Castle Island. Beyond it the depth drops rapidly to the sandy floor of the open bay at 25m. There are impressive breakers here during rough winter weather but lovely gullies and marine life at 15-20m in the summer.
There is a green navigation buoy about 100m SW of the rock, but as it wanders a bit, an echo sounder or dragged anchor should be used to find the edge of the reef. As divers will surface at least 1km from any land it is not really suitable for novice divers.
West Calf Island
Half way to Cape Clear Island and about 6km from Schull Pier lie the 3 Calf Islands. A few hardy families still lived on these islands until the 1930's and some ruined houses still remain. The best of the diving is on the Western end of West Calf, where the jagged rocks take the full brunt of the Atlantic weather. In 1848 a wooden ship, the "Stephen Whittley", struck these rocks and a few encrusted remains can be found in the gullies just North of the tip of the island in about 15cm of water.
A little further off from here are marvelous deep broad gullies heading down gradually to 30m where there is an abrupt drop of 5m to the sandy bottom of the bay. There is a tidal flow across this point and care should be taking when the tide is flowing hard, but the scenery is magnificent with extensive beds of Dead Man's Fingers and Jewel Anenomes.
Just South of the point one gully has a massive rock jammed in it making a spectacular archway to swim through. Due to the potential problem of drifting off into wide open sea, good boat cover is important and the use of SMB's is recommended. The North and South sides of West Calf offer good diving when it is too rough to dive the point itself. There is an interesting sheltered dive in the lee of the small group of rocks on the Northern side of Middle Calf.
Cape Clear Island
Lying 10km South of Schull is the large island of Cape Clear on which 100 people still live. It is reached from the mainland by passenger ferries from either Schull or Baltimore. However, on a calm day it is no problem to make the journey from Schull by dive boat, but a convoy of 2 boats would make more sense.
The main landing place is North Harbour which is in the hollow, midway along the otherwise hilly island. It is a charming little harbour with several pubs, shops and guest houses. There is excellent diving West, out from the harbour and under the cliffs and headlands right round to South Harbour which is only a short walk across the narrow neck of the island back to North Harbour. Continuing East along the South cliffs there are good dive sites right up to the Gascanane Sound which separates Cape Clear from Sherkin Island.
"Nestorian"
This 120m, 2400 ton ship, carrying steel ingots and empty shell heads, floundered under the cliffs South of the "Bill of Cape" in 1917. The wreckage is well spread out very close under the cliffs in 10-20m, but makes for an interesting wreck dive with nice scenery as well. Due to the closeness of the shore and the exposed Westerly position, this is a dive for very calm days only!
Directions: Coming from the North, after passing the distinctive "Bill of Cape" head across the small bay for the next headland which is actually the Cape of Cape Clear but in fact is not very dramatic. At one gully before the Cape there is a large flat rock about 4m long looking like the sole of a shoe perched at the top of a cliff fade and the wreck is directly below this. On the chart No. 2184 it is at the point where there is a depth sounding marked "12.8m".
Illyrian (Lighthouse Wreck)
About 1km East of South Harbour there is a large rock scree running down the cliffs below the old lighthouse. The ship seems to have ran bow first into this cove with the wreckage running out Eastward. There are anchors and chain to be found at the bottom the scree is about 8m and the boilers are still intact at about 22m along with a lot of plate.
Gascanane Sound
The area between the islands of Cape Clear and Sherkin offer some marvelous diving with large pinnacles ranging from 10m down to 40m at the South-East corner of Cape Clear and superb areas of marine growth on the Southern side of the Carrigmore Rocks that are mid-way across the sound. There are very strong tidal flows through the sound and the sea can get very rough when the wind is against the tide. The surface can appear to "boil" as it surges over underwater rocks and ledges. Plan to dive either at slack water or well within a tidal shadow of the rocks and use a surface marker buoy whenever possible.
The best of the gullies at Carraigmore are close to the rocks in about 10-15m. There are a few dull patches especially to the West, so if you land in one move East is spectacular but very demanding and requires excellent preparation. The other small islands close to the Eastern side of the sound also offer excellent diving, as does the South side of Sherkin Island itself.
Fastnet Rock
The world famous Fastnet Rock with its impressive lighthouse lies 5km South-West of the end of Cape Clear Island and offers some of the best diving anywhere in Ireland. As there are strong and sometimes erratic tidal flows and deep water all around the rock, diving at the Fastnet is only for the experienced and then only with reliable boats and very calm weather.
It is 15km from Schull and it is advisable to charter a hard boat for the trip to give extra security and to benefit local knowledge. For those "going it alone", two substantial dive boats, both reliable engines and radios, should be considered the absolute minimum. As it is very difficult to assess the weather conditions around the rock from shore, be prepared to abandon the dive and head for a less demanding spot and keep a sharp watch out for changing conditions when the tide turns.
When the conditions are just right, a trip to the Fastnet can give you a day to remember for many years. The visible rock is in the middle of a narrow reef running SW - NE about 1km in each direction with depths of 45m being rapidly reached on either side should you get swept off by the tide. The section of reef towards Cape Clear is the simpler to dive on and close to the rock itself there is some shelter from the tide if you missed exact slack water.
The section of reef outside rock should be approached with great care as the tide rarely stops flowing and the diving is very demanding. Being an isolated rock the underwater scenery is spectacular with huge shoals of fish and fantastic growths on every rock face. Due to the clarity of the water and the excellent scenery it is easy to misjudge depths and duration, so don;t get too carried away!
A suitable method of spotting divers who have surfaced a long way from the boat must be used. Due to the deep, narrow gullies and tidal flows, an SMB can be difficult to use effectively. If the sea is absolutely flat calm, it is possible to land on the rock and inspect the lighthouse at close quarters to marvel at the high quality of the stone masonry which has withstood 80 years of Atlantic storms. This is only for those who are nimble footed and prepared to swim back out to a boat if the swell suddenly picks up!
South Cork
Sunday, 03 January 2010 22:43 |
| Ireland |
Around the Cork area there are numerous diving sites, both boat and shore. The Cork Harbour area has interesting dives which lie some miles off the coast and require local knowledge to avail of these particular areas.
South Cork Dive Sites
The Celtic
The Celtic lies Roche's Point and can be located by boat some 15min from Crosshaven. Crosshaven is well equipped to handle boats having both a marina and a good slip. Local knowledge is required to locate the wreck. The wreck can be affected by a strong Easterly current, therefore slack water is essential.
Robert's Cove
Robert's Cove is situated on the Southern approach to Cork Harbour off the L67 Kinsale to Carrigaline road and is mainly shore diving. Park opposite Robert's Cove Inn on the road and work your way along the cliff, access to be found at the side of a boat house. At the entrance to the cove you can access the water's edge. Snorkel the width of the cove, and dive in about 6m of water working due South out to the Eastern headland.
Boat diving may also be undertaken from Robert's Cove. The Daunt Rock is 5km offshore and well worth a visit but it is very exposed and subject to a strong Easterly current so diving at slack water is essential. The bottom at 30m+ is rough with broken rock and many brittle starfish.
Man-of-War Cove
About 4km South of Robert's Cove is Man-of-War Cove. From Robert's Cove take the road to Nohaval. at the first cross-roads turn left and continue for about 1km (through private lands) and work your way down to the cove. the roadway is narrow and little room for parking.
Dive South along the rocks, expect a depth of 10-12m. the bay is so named because a warship was wrecked there - the "Zorro".
Nohaval Cove
Nohaval Cove is a shore dive, a car may be taken down to the site, but there is no access for boats. work out of the cove and head East. Again expect a depth of 10-15m .
Oysterhaven
Oysterhaven has plenty of choices. There is a good slip, which is ideal, for launching boats. Oysterhaven is also a very good venue for shore diving, with easy access to the water.
Ling Rocks
The Ling Rocks are some 9km South-South East of Oysterhaven. This dive will require local knowledge, as it consists of a series of peaks which have to be seen to be believed and the minimum depth is 26m.
Sovereign Islands
These islands are much closer inshore and the remains of a Dutch trawler lie on the South side of the big Sovereign. The small Sovereign has a grotto which is located at the Eastern end. This takes some finding, but once found it makes for a sweet dive. One can swim from one end and out the other. Around the Sovereigns depths are approximately 12-15m.
Ballymaccus Bay
Ballymaccus Bay is directly opposite the slip in Oysterhaven and makes for a good, safe dive, if you want a shallow night dive. There is plenty of life to be seen here.
Kinsale
Kinsale has a marina and a good slip for launching boats. The choices here are almost too numerous to mention, but here are some ones. After diving, it must be mentioned that Kinsale is the gourmet capital of Ireland with many first class restaurants to choose from.
Charles Fort
On the North side of Kinsale Harbour, near the Youth Hostel, is Charles Fort. the route is well signposted with plenty of parking. A good shore dive
Sandy Cove Island
Head out of Kinsale Harbour and turn to starboard and head for Sandy Cove Island. There are plenty of gullies to move in and out of which run in a South easterly direction with a maximum depth of 15m. Sandy Cove can also be used for shore diving with easy access by car.
Black Head
From Kinsale take the road for the Old Head of Kinsale. After approximately 8km, pass through Lispatrick and take the first road to the left. This leads to Black Head. A reef heading South East from the shore makes for a good shore dive with a maximum depth of 25m. It has good sea life and is sheltered from the prevailing winds.
Bream Rock
Continue on to the Speckled Door Pub at Garretstown, where a boat can be launched, for a dive on Bream Rock on the Eastern side of the Old Head of Kinsale. Watch the tides when diving the Rock. Always dive on a slack or flooding tide or - "Hello America!". SMB's are essential.
Holeopen Bay West
This is an exciting dive! Have a flooding tide, a Westerly wind and shoot through the hole and find yourself in Holeopen Bay East, the other side of Kinsale Head. This dive varies in depth 2-12m in the middle, but a lot of fun
The "Stonewall Jackson"
North from the Speckled Door and off the Red Strand the wreck of the Stonewall Jackson is supposed to lie. As it has not been found, there's a quest! This area may also be accessed from Kinsale. Depths around 12m on a mixed bottom.
Seven Heads
Seven Heads is interesting as the Cardiff Hall was wrecked there. Take the L42 West from Kinsale and turn off (South) at Timoleague for Barryshall.
Access can be made at Dunworly Bay where there is a tidal slip and a 4 wheel drive is advisable. This site is also a shore dive but should only be undertaken by the fit, as there is climbing and equipment carrying to be done, before gaining access to the water. Nevertheless a pleasurable dive with depths of about 12-15m.